Bandung spreads over the foothills of a large plateau just three hours by train from Jakarta. Travellers generally ignore this pleasant city in the rush to get straight to (or straight out of) its bigger, noisier neighbour. But Bandung’s cool climate, tree-lined streets and laid-back attitude mean it definitely deserves a few days of your time.

The city is the perfect place to delve into the rich culture of the Sundanese. Check out some traditional puppetry at a wayang golek show. Put your body on the line (or just watch from ringside) with a spot of pencak silat, a Javanese martial art. For a truly epic battle, check out one of Bandung’s rambunctious ram-butting fights, then take the edge off your sympathy headache with a cocktail in the bar at the Holiday Inn.

Wander the back streets to browse wooden puppets, masks and musical instruments, then hit up the Bandung Supermall for some air-conditioned retail therapy. Score a pair of bargain-priced jeans on Jalan Cihampelas, where each outlet store boasts its own gigantic kitschy plaster superhero. Pick up a few locally designed t-shirts at the funky streetwear boutiques on Jalan Trunojoyo, then head back to the Sukajadi Hotel to model your new wardrobe in front of the mirror.

Outdoor types can stroll past streams, waterfalls and Japanese caves from the WWII era in the lush forests around Bandung. Take a hike (or a taxi!) to the top of Tangkuban Prahu, an impressive volcano crater, making sure you leave time for a dip in the hot springs on your way down. Explore a charming clove or tea plantation, then taste the harvest for yourself with a cuppa on your balcony at the hilltop Jayakarta Suite.