Isla Mujeres (Island of Women) does not sport an exotic array of women as its name might suggest. It’s a small fishing community that comfortably blends its locals with tourists: a rarity along the dollar-focused Riviera Maya. The tiny Mayan temple at the island’s south end, full of female figures, gives the place its name. It’s not much of a ruin, having been hideously modernised, but it sits dramatically on a rocky cliff. Only 8 km long and less than 1 km wide, a guided taxi tour around the island for US$15 (1-1.5 hours) is one way to see the entire island and indulge in some local gossip. You can also rent golf carts, mopeds or bicycles. Isla Mujeres attracts divers, snorkelers and sports fishermen. The sealife is abundant and interactive, thanks to the sale of fish food and the encouraged manhandling of pet sharks. That said, the turtle conservation park is definitely worth a look. It might not comply with current conservation theories but the right intention is there. Plus you’ll get to see rare breeds like the Hawks Bill and White turtle. Other activities worth investing your time in include snorkeling the Garrafon National Park reef, chartering a fishing boat or just relaxing on Playa Norte, the island’s best and calmest beach.

Isla Mujeres’ strategic geographical location in the Caribbean demands a naval presence. You’ll see gun-slinging marines surveying the sea for illegal Cuban immigrants, but their involvement on the island extends further than simply hunting down boat people. The first basic services for the island were established with the assistance of the marines, and in recent times, the navy has been invaluable during emergencies. In fact, much of Isla Mujeres is under repair since Hurricane Wilma ravaged the area in November 2005. Rubble and construction sites litter the Punta Sur (south end), although this should not deter you from staying on the island. There are still plenty of hotels to choose from. We stayed at Hotel Secreto, a relative new comer to the island. As it’s name suggest, the hotel is small and secluded, but any local can give you directions to its discrete entrance. The hotel has a choice of nine deluxe King rooms (all with stunning ocean views), floor-to-ceiling windows and native stone floors. This luxurious retreat instantly envelops you in a warm cloak of serenity and the homage to relaxation is everywhere. Each room has a balcony with day bed overlooking the infinity-edge pool, swaying palm trees and Caribbean sea. You can see the outdoor bar from your balcony and calling out to the bartender to bring up a margarita is encouraged. But seclusion does not come cheaply in a country of almost 110 million people. Hotel Secreto’s rooms cost between US$225-400 depending on what floor you would prefer to stay (highest floor = highest price). A word of warning too: whilst the Caribbean side of the island is exquisite, blustery winds occur even after hurricane season (Sep-Oct). Stay bayside during the cooler months; its much more pleasant. Stay on the Caribbean side during the warmer months; you’ll be grateful for the refreshing sea breeze.

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